Knitting as a leisure activity for early Victorian middle-class women 1837-1851
MA History, Department of History, University of Reading, UK
Submitted by Sally Kentfield, September 2019
Abstract
This dissertation examines the initial production of knitting books in the mid-nineteenth century. The methodology combines traditional archival research with digital humanities techniques to examine the book title page, dedication and preface for socioeconomic, class and gender cues of the authors and intended audience.
The research found publications started appearing in the years following Queen Victoria’s coronation followed by a peak in published titles in the 1840s. Digitisation projects have increased the volume and availability of nineteenth century knitting books. The increased volume requires use of quantitative digital humanities methodologies to produce a suitable subset of data for qualitative analysis. Digitisation projects are selective and not exhaustive and un-catalogued knitting and needlework archive boxes were found within the Bodleian’s John Johnson Collection and the University of Reading’s Valda Cowie Collection. The quantitative analysis highlighted recurring key words in the titles and prefaces of nineteenth century knitting books reflecting significant social events including Queen Victoria’s coronation and the Great Exhibition. The most prolific authors are middle-class females with retail premises selling the needleworking materials that the recipes in the books call for suggesting the books were primarily a promotional device. The author Frances Lambert was selected for a feasibility case study to evaluate whether a qualitative analysis of the prefaces of Lambert’s books provides sufficient information to widen the body of knowledge about the author and expand on the previously limited biography. The quantity of new information enabled a biography covering most of the adult life of Lambert. The biography was submitted to the ODNB for consideration. The biography is not complete and lacks information for the first 32 years of Lambert’s life including parents, education and residence.
Knitting book are a rich underused primary source of social context reflecting class and gender changes in early Victorian Britain.
Conclusion
The focus of this dissertation is the social context surrounding the initial production of knitting books in the mid-nineteenth century. The methodology combines traditional archival research with digital humanities techniques to examine the book title page, dedication and preface for social cues to evaluate the socioeconomic, class and gender context of those authoring the books and any indicators of the intended target audience. The initial production of knitting book titles peaks in the mid-1840s at a time when knitting has evolved from a trade skill for the working class to an acceptable leisure activity for increasingly literate middle-class women. Knitting books were predominantly authored by women at a time when there are few documented female authors of non-fiction. The titles, prefaces and editorial comments in these books provide a new layer of information directly from the authors themselves, written with their target audience in mind.
Objective 1: Does the Knitting Reference Library digitisation project and the increase in research publications related to knitting indicate that the volume and availability of primary sources for knitting books in the nineteenth century has increased?
Multiple digitisation projects over the last 20 years has increased ease of access to copies of books located in remote libraries and archives. Internet and library catalogue search tools make locating copies of knitting books published in the nineteenth century considerably easier than the limited tools that were available to Potter and Rutt. The resulting large dataset requires quantitative analysis tools to handle the volume of information. The data set has increased to include copies of books that Potter previously only identified in trade journals, and identifies the potential for future research to revisit and expand on Potter’s bibliography. The finding of un-catalogued knitting and needlework archive boxes within the Bodleian’s John Johnson collection and the University of Reading Special Collection’s Valda Cowie collection confirm that archival catalogues do not have complete coverage of all the knitting-related items held in archives. It is hoped that the cataloguing completed as part of this research will aid future research of the history of knitting, and encourage future researchers to look in their local archives for additional uncatalogued knitting books and ephemera.
Objective 2: Can combining traditional archival research methods with digital humanities tools and techniques be used to build and expand on the existing body of knowledge?
The quantitative analysis highlighted recurring key words in the titles and prefaces of nineteenth century knitting books. The key words reflected significant events. References to Queen Victoria followed the coronation in 1837. References to the Great Exhibition appear in books published in 1851 and following years. Confirms the value of knitting books specifically, and needlework books in general, in reflecting social and economic changes occurring when the books were written and published. The analysis of the authors found a correlation between the most prolific authors being female with retail premises selling the needleworking materials that the patterns in the books call for suggesting the books were primarily a promotional and sales tool. The referencing and dedications to members of the social elite suggests social marketing and demonstrations of social networking to further promote the aspirational nature of the ‘fancy work’ items in the books.
Objective 3: Evaluate whether the expanded body of knowledge can be used to increase the limited biographies for female authors of Victorian knitting books.
The author France Lambert was selected for a feasibility case study to evaluate whether a qualitative analysis of the prefaces of Lambert’s books can provide sufficient information to widen the body of knowledge about the author and expand on the previously limited biography. The previous biographical information provided by Potter and Rutt highlighted the lack of known information. The qualitative analysis identified many data points to follow up with traditional archival investigation including census records, marriage certificates, death certificates, Royal Household archives, and newspaper archives. The volume of new data found was larger than expected. The new information was sufficient to produce an expanded biography to cover most of the adult life of Lambert. The expanded biography was sufficient to stand up to the requirements for the ODNB and a copy was submitted for consideration. The primary source data gathered contained sufficiently corroborating data points for Lambert’s married name and first name to be able to correct incorrect references and supposition in prior publications and in the British Library catalogue. The expanded biography is not complete and lacks information for the first 32 years of Lambert’s life including parents, education and residence.
This research was limited by the lack of cataloguing of primary sources in archives. As discussed in chapter 4 the Valda Cowie archive with the University of Reading Special Collections and the needlework section of the John Johnson archive within the Bodleian Library were uncatalogued prior to this research. The time spent cataloguing at the Bodleian took up the whole of the research time that was available within the limited self-funded research budget. Additional visits to the Valda Cowie collection were cheaper and easier to schedule in due to the local proximity which allowed for the extra visits resulting in identifying Lambert’s husband’s personal library copy of Lambert’s book. The limited time and budget restricted the set of archives that could be accessed within the timeframe of this dissertation.
The main recommendations from this research is that knitting books are not overlooked as a primary source. The results of the research have already been shared with the ODNB and will also be shared with the Knitting History Forum, the In The Loop conference, and the Knitting and Crochet Guild. It is hoped that sharing the findings may encourage further use of knitting books as a primary source.
There is scope for further work in this area. It is likely that there are additional uncatalogued knitting books in archives across the country. It is hoped that as more researchers become aware of and use knitting books within their research that new primary source material from the nineteenth century may yet be sitting waiting to be identified. As digital text analysis tools improve it will be possible for future research to look at larger sets of data such as the whole of the corpus of nineteenth century knitting books to look to trends and changes over time. The scope of this research was limited to only a part of the information that is available in each book and as technology improves it may be possible to research all the patterns and terminology used throughout the whole of each book and the advertisements within the books. The choice of recipes, patterns and yarns reflects the dress and fashions of the time and has the potential to further delineate which social class stratifications the books were targeting. As digital translation tools improve the scope could be widened to review the duplication of patterns by different authors across multiple countries and languages and this has the potential to identify some of the authors of books published anonymously.
Knitting book are a rich underused primary source of social context reflecting class and gender changes in early Victorian Britain.
Appendix 1: British Library catalogue correction
BRITISH LIBRARY CATALOGUE ENTRIES
017491370 My knitting-book
002059223 My knitting book
017021307 My knitting book
002059226 My knitting book
002059225 My knitting book
002059217 The hand-book of needlework
002059214 The hand-book of needlework
002059221 My crochet sampler
002059220 My crochet sampler
002059218 The ladies' complete guide to needle-work and embroidery
002059213 Church needlework
Author was: Lambert, A (Miss)
Author is now: Lambert, Frances (Miss)
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